How to Find Fairytale Landscapes in the Bavarian Alps
It's the magic found in hidden places, like the Bavarian Alps, that makes the long journey to Europe worth it. The Lost Bilby made multiple wrong turns during this adventure, so this isn't the most conventional guide.
Mind you, sometimes you need to get a little lost to discover true magic. Here's my upside-down guide to finding fairytales in the Bavarian Alps.
Day One
Travelling to Zugspitze
Beginning from Munich Hauptbahnhof, my first day in the Alps was planned around visiting Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain. Despite not securing a guided tour, I was determined to embark on a self-guided journey to a cable car that would take me almost 3,000 meters high.
According to my research, all it took was a train from Munich to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and a connecting bus from outside Garmisch Train Station to the mountain's base.
Upon arriving, I assumed I had disembarked at the wrong station as I couldn't find a dedicated bus for Zugspitze. After speaking to a friendly local at a cafe, they mentioned that using the bus isn't the best way to access the mountain, as it only takes visitors as far as Elbsee.
According to my new German friend, using the cog-wheel train to Zugspitze Plateau is better for tourists. It departs only meters from the Garmisch-Partenkirchen Train Station.
Having wandered Garmisch-Partenkirchen's charming streets for slightly too long, I didn't have time to catch another train to Zugspitze. I was recommended to visit the Garmisch Classic instead.
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If you can afford it, the easiest way for tourists to travel from Munich to Zugspitze is via a guided tour. You can find these on Viator or GetYourGuide. If a tour isn't an option, take the train from Munich Hauptbahnhof to Garmisch-Partenkirchen before boarding the cogwheel train located from Zugspitzebahn Station at Garmisch. You can use the DB app to find the right journey for your adventure.
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Regardless of whether you take a guided tour to Zugspitze or not, you will likely need to buy tickets for the cable-car. Visit zugspitze.de in advance to pre-book your tickets to ensure you get the best price and a guaranteed seat on the cable-car. Those visiting without a tour will also need to book their return journey via train, best done on the DB app.
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Whether Zugspitze is worth visiting will depend on your interests and bucket list while in Bavaria. Although it's an expensive experience, Zugspitze is better for tourists as it has more dining and entertainment options for those who can't ski. However, suppose you aren't interested in an overpriced meal with a view or a cable-car that takes you almost 3,000 meters high. In that case, you may like to look elsewhere.
Garmich Classic
You can access the Garmisch Classic cable car by taking the train from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the Hausberghbahn cable car. As a Queenslander, I can't give advice about conditions or locations for snow sports. With ski hire, shops, and accommodation at the mountain base, Garmisch-Classic seemed like a dream location for skiing near Munich.
As Garmich Classic is primarily for snow-sports, Zugspitze is likely the better option for those who can’t ski. Regardless, I enjoyed a hot chocolate at D9 on the Garmich Classic summit, a cheaper alternative for me.
When returning to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, keep in mind the Garmisch Classic train station isn't serviced often. If you miss the train, you can always take the scenic 25-minute walk to the main train station like I did.
Garmich-Partenkirchen
Surrounded by mountains, wooden chalets with flower boxes on their doorsteps line the cobblestone pathways of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Even though exploring the medieval town's attractions ended up replacing my visit to Zugspitze, I'm glad I didn't rush past its quaint streets.
From Ludwigstrasse, a street known for its festive atmosphere, to Franziskanerkioster St. Anton's Church, you'll find yourself in another world here. As this town is well-connected with the remainder of the Alps, you could visit Oberammergau or another mountain after exploring this town. Since I made too many wrong turns in Garmich-Partenkirchen, I ended my day here.
Day Two
Touring the Alps With a Bus Tour
For my second day, I visited Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace with Grey Line’s Premium Bus Tour. Usually, I choose the most basic package to save money for other experiences.
However, I wanted to immerse myself in Bavaria’s beauty on a comfortable bus that wasn’t crowded. Since the VIP bus had large single window seats for solo travellers like myself, and coffee facilities for an early morning start, the extra touch of luxury paid off.
Oberammergau
Known for woodcarving and the Passion Play, Oberammergau is another medieval town in the Bavarian Alps worth visiting. During the 18th century, residents’ painted images of fairytale characters and religious figures on their houses by applying paint to wet lime plaster.
As this technique causes a chemical reaction increasing durability, tourists in the 21st century can still admire these artworks. For those taking a self-guided journey through the Alps, you can access this town with a direct bus from Garmich-Partenkirchen.
Linderhof Palace
Arriving at Linderhof Palace, I discovered a landscape covered by snow among the Ettaler Forest with the castle's neo-rococo structure merely steps away. Despite being one of King Ludwig's smaller 19th-century structures, this Palace is filled with gold embellishments, hand-painted lavishness and chandeliers on every ceiling. You'll even find a room filled with mirrors, the Linderhof Mirror Hall, that looks like it has been pulled from the evil queen's magic mirror room in Snow White.
Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside the Palace. You'll have to trust me when I say this little Palace is pulled from a fairytale. Neuschwanstein Castle is the more popular destination, but I preferred exploring Linderhof Palace without the grand spiral staircase to climb.
Tegelberg Mountain
Noticed for the cross sitting on the mountain's summit, you can take a cable car to reach a small hike taking you to the top of Tegelberg. We didn't stop here and only passed the striking mountain on our way to another castle.
I was told that buses to the cable car depart from Füssen Station. Popular among pilgrims, ensure you research the track conditions before attempting the journey, as it's known for being a challenging hike. As Füssen is connected to Munich via train, this could be a great half-day adventure from the city, even if you don't attempt the hike.
Neuschwanstein Castle
Perched upon a cliff among dense forest, Neuschwanstein Castle's limestone walls and spiralling towers lift into the Bavarian sky, noticeable from as far as Füssen. Although construction was never completed, Neuschwanstein inspired the castles in Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty.
On arrival, your bus will drop you off at Hohenschwangau, the town located below the castle. I only wish I had cash for this attraction so I could ride the shuttle bus or horse-drawn carriage to Neuschwanstein's entrance, where tours depart. Regardless, you can walk the steep, flat and very scenic path instead.
Planning Your Time at Neuschwanstein Castle
Before shopping or eating in Hohenschwangau, I suggest prioritising getting to the castle entrance first. While the shuttle bus takes 15 minutes one way, you'll need to allow around 45 minutes to walk to the top. If you are desperate for a bratwurst or souvenir, there are places to dine and shop as you get closer to Neuschwanstein's entrance.
Once you have finished your castle tour, you'll also need time to descend the grand spiral staircase, explore the old kitchen, the Balcony and the small museum. Paired with a few photos outside, a break to admire the views and lunch after your tour, you'll find that two to three hours will pass quickly. As someone who had to run down the hill to ensure I didn’t miss my departing bus, trust me when I say there’s no time to waste at Neuschwanstein Castle.
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Despite the difference in size, both of these landmarks are worth putting on your Bavarian itinerary. If you embark on a bus tour to Neuschwanstein Castle, you won't need to choose between the two. Without a tour, I recommend visiting Neuschwanstein Castle, as it's easier to access with public transportation from Füssen. You will also find many other activities to do after your castle tour here, including a visit to Hohenschwangau Castle.
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While you can reach Neuschwanstein Castle from Füssen, some castles in the Alps are challenging to access thanks to the region's rugged nature. Exploring with a bus tour won't allow for enough time in every destination on your bucket list. However, I found it was a great way to immerse myself in Bavaria's magic without having a car or knowing fluent German.
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While you can reach Neuschwanstein Castle from Füssen, some castles in the Alps are challenging to access thanks to the region's rugged nature. Exploring with a bus tour won't allow for enough time in every destination on your bucket list. However, I found it was a great way to immerse myself in Bavaria's magic without having a car or knowing fluent German.
From Sleeping Beauty's Castle to Storybrook landscapes covered in snow, I was able to discover the magic of the Bavarian Alps. My guide wasn’t straight forward, but I still think every traveller should explore this magical region filled with fairytale landscapes.
